11.1.11 - "Sometimes I think sitting on trains..."

The above video provides a glimpse of what its like to ride in an auto-rickshaw. The experience is so preposterously chaotic that it feels more like a video game than real life.
          We experienced heavy rains at MCC today. People are starting to run out of clothes since they weren't able to do laundry on the trip and the humid air prevents any drying. After class, twelve of us went with Suresh on an adventure into Chennai. We purchased train tickets for 14 rupees/person and rolled down the tracks toward town. As we were chugging down the line, the train came to a sudden stop. Based on the Tamil conversations in the car, Suresh was able to decipher that someone may have fallen off the train. I was surprised when Suresh told me that this was the first time had experienced such an incident on the railway considering the sardine-like way in which people are crammed onto the open car train. The train was so packed that whenever we stopped at stations along the way to our destination, people boarding the train would pass their luggage through the train windows to strangers inside the car. I was impressed by the way in which most Indians I saw on the train were willing to help each other. There was a refreshingly odd sense of community on the public transport. We caught a ride on the auto-rickshaw shown in the above video to the shopping center.
          The vendors at the Chennai mall were hilarious. One of them tried to interest me in buying a shawl with this gem of a sales pitch: "It can be zero degrees outside and you will be able to hatch egg wrapped inside." Oh India... 

10.29-31.11 - Fossils, fish, and flowers

 In my element...

          We got off to an early start this morning. As it turned out, we needed it; it took us much longer than expected to locate the limestone quarrt of Tamil Nadu Cement Company. Thankfully, this stop was worth the wait. In addition to viewing some of the main rock types of Southern India, our group got the chance to roam the mine in search of our own Cretaceous period fossils. It was like an Easter egg hunt for geologists. I collected so many samples that my pants nearly fell off as we got back on the bus!
          As we were driving back to our resort, it was interesting to see the political advertisements in the small towns. Political candidates have devised an ingenious system to garner votes in which they associate themselves with a specific symbol. These symbols, which included a ladder, a padlock, and a sunrise, were painted in bold colors on the white walls of the villages. Apparently, this technique ensures that political candidates receive votes from both the literate and illiterate populations.

Catch of the day

A youthful admirer watches as Serena receives flowers

          After an interesting tour of the the Tanjore library and museum, we had the afternoon off. Several of us chose to utilize our down time by walking from our resort to the nearby town. We were treated with many wildlife sitings along the way including peacocks, kingfishers, and snakes. It was approaching dinner time when we finally arrived at the village and it was fun to see the people bustling about in preparation for the evening meal. The villagers were seen purchasing fish from the riverside fish market and rice from the massive pile deposited near the end of the main street. Since I have been in India, I have seen many interesting things transported on mopeds including giant water jugs and entire car doors. However, this small village was where I saw the most bizarre and creative use of moped transportation. The occupants of the two-wheeled vehicle were positioned sequentially as follows: goat-man-goat-man-goat. That's right, two guys and three goats were spotted cruising on a moped down the main drag of the village. There may or may not have been a couple of chickens dangling from the side mirror.
          We spent the 31st on the bus traveling back to MCC. On the way home, we stopped at a restaurant that had a playground outside. Not surprisingly, several of our students enjoyed the chance to stretch their legs after lunch by swinging and teeter-tottering. Recess was cut short by one of the parking lot attendants, who came running onto the playground blowing his whistle and wildly gesticulating. It was comical to see the confused expression on this man's face when Suresh attempted to explain that we were just kids trying to have some fun. He didn't buy it. We celebrated Halloween by munching on treats from the Pick-'n'-pack as we watched The Social Network on the projector screen in the MCC guesthouse.
          

10.28.11 - The main attratction?

Drew and Alexis: Celebrity status

          Today, we visited the Kalani Dam and toured two temples near Trichy. Ironically, our study away group ended up being the biggest attraction at the temples. Drew and Alexis were especially popular - so many people wanted their picture taken with them that the two of them just stood in place while the locals filtereed in and out for pictures with the exotic Americans. Not many people wanted a picture with me. Perhaps I look too much like a native with my striking mustcache haha (I wish haha).
          After a long day of site seeing, we checked into the Ideal River View Resort in Tanjore. So far, it has lived up to its name. Beautiful river, good food, and good amenities. At dinner, several of us enjoyed banana pastry desserts (the Indians generously called them "pancakes") that were prepared right at our table. We finished off the day with a marathon evening of table tennis. Ryan and I took on Suresh and Luke for several epic games.

10.27.11 - My kind of temple

         

View of the city from Trichy rock fort

          We left MCC early this morning for our trip to the Trichy area. I assumed by customary sleeping position in the overhead luggage storage shelf for the 6-hour ride from Tambaram. We stopped at a roadside gas station/restaurant for lunch. I ordered a traditional South Indian meal, which consisted of rice served on a banana leaf accompanied with 7 small cups of different curries. I'm feeling more like a native now that I can eat without the aid of utensils.
          While in Trichy, we visited the rock fort temple. This temple was my favorite of the trip so far by virtue of the fact that its foundation rests on top of a substantial mound of metamorphic rock. After climbing all 413 stairs, we were able to take in the breathtaking views from the rock fort. You know you are up high when the hawks are soaring at eye level! There were remarkably intelligent monkeys loitering just outside of the temple. These precocious primates had the dexterity and know-how to operate the water faucet to obtain drinking water.  

10.23-26.11 - "Saree for partying!"

          It has been a relaxing yet exciting week at MCC. Although we have been chilling around campus, it was easy to get pumped up considering that this was Diwali week. A noticeable feeling of excitement radiated across campus and permeated the streets of the Tambaram market. Early in the week, Dr. Suresh showed us a place in the market where we could purchase delicious goodies from a local bakery. I chose a box of doughnut-like pastries that hit the spot. Dr. Suresh also purchased a small box of fireworks so that we could practice shooting them off for Diwali. It cracked me up to see how giddy and excited Dr. Suresh became when the fuses were lit. 

          We also made a trip down the highway to the money exchange office. There was a sign on the wall in the office that read, "After withdrawing money, go directly home; do not stop for tea or chat with friends." On the way back from the exchange office, I saw a man crossing the busy street with his elephant. 

          This week was also a monumental week in that I tried doing yoga. We have an instructor who comes to campus early in the morning and puts us through our paces. Although I have learned some useful stretches, the experience has not been entirely seamless - I blew out the crotch in by athletic shorts when I tried to do the "wood chop squat." 

          Today was Diwali! It's like a fusion of Christmas, Haloween, and the 4th of July - gifts, good food, costumes, and fireworks are all piled into one rockin' holiday. We spent the day at the Muthukrishnan home. It was so cool to see where Dr. Suresh grew up. Stephen and Suresh's cousin set off fireworks outside while everyone watched from the front porch. Judging by the explosive force, there is no way these fireworks would be available to the public in the US! Lunch was served to us on a banana leaf as we sat "Indian style" on the dining room floor. I was able to perfect my hand-eating technique; pinch, twist, and thumb flick is the optimal sequence. We are getting ready to meet up with students and faculty from Davidson for a Diwali dinner. It will be nice to see other students from the US.

          Tomorrow we are leaving for a 5-day trip to Tiuchirappalli. Check in early next week for an update on our adventures. 

1,000 shells...          

On the roof at Suresh's house

             

India's Water Issues (WARNING: Academic Content)

Gutter in the Tambaram market

       
         It has been nearly three weeks since our arrival in India. In our intense, 6-week study period at Furman, we read several articles on some of the issues that India is facing with respect to its water supply. Although I was able to assimilate the information in the articles and learn from the material presented to us in lectures, I feel that I have a much better understanding of the India's major hydrological challenges now that I have spent several weeks living in India. The following blog is dedicated to my personal reflections on India's water supply.
          Even before we arrived in India, Dr. Suresh and Dr. Khandke repeatedly warned the students in the India study away group to only consume bottled water. When we got to MCC, I began to understand why our professors were concerned about the quality of the tap water. It was around 4 AM when we began to groggily unpack our belongings into our rooms. Having not brushed my teeth since our layover in Germany, I was eager to freshen my breath, so I grabbed my toothbrush and toothpaste from my backpack and made my way to the bathroom. My brain was on autopilot as I squeezed toothpaste onto my toothbrush and ran it under the water flowing out of the faucet. After brushing my teeth and rinsing my mouth out with tap water, I urgently began to spit into the sink with machine gun-like rapidity - the water possessed a foul, metallic taste. It was then that I realized my mistake and discovered that my professors weren't kidding when they warned us about India's questionable water quality.
          For me, this incident with tap water at the sink in our dorm room set the hydrologic tone for the trip. From that point on, I have tried to be more observant of water in India. Over the course of our time in India, I have noticed that I constantly feel dirty - it seems like its impossible to get clean, even after taking a shower. This is due in large part to the fact that the tap water in many parts of the state of Tamil Nadu can be considered hard water. Water is classified as hard water if it has high dissolved concentrations of group two metals like calcium and magnesium. When taking a shower, these ions in the water react with the organic acids of soap to form insoluble salts that form a slimy scum on the skin. As a result, the high ion concentration of the water makes it difficult to achieve a cleansing lather and one's skin remains partially dirty. In addition to this constant feeling of uncleanliness, a more humorous indicator of the abnormal water quality is how "poofy" everyone's hair has become after continual exposure to the water in India.
          However, the water on the campus of MCC is sanitary and potable in comparison to the water that I saw in the Tambaram market. While walking through the market place, I was shocked by the amount of trash that littered the streets. Everything from old candy wrappers to to rotting fish heads could be seen laying in the gutters. I was stood aghast as I watched a little girl in the market squat walk up to one of the gutters, squat down, and deposit the contents of her moving bowels in the stagnant drain water. It was also alarmingly common to see men publicly relieve the pressure on their bladders on the side of the street. India's water quality is literally shitty.
          After I witnessed firsthand the egregious conditions of the water in the Tambaram market, the dire state of India's water supply began to sink in. It is imperative that the water quality of Tambaram and the rest of India is improved. I suddenly felt very academic and snobbish after my summer working with the River Basins Research Initiative and conducting a research on dissolved organic carbon in the headwaters of streams in the upstate of South Carolina. Although my summer research was very interesting, I feel like not knowing the source of dissolved organic matter in a stream is a first-world problem in comparison to the dire water quality issues that India is facing. A slightly high pH value or a curiously abnormal conductivity reading in the Upper Saluda River seems trivial considering the fact that there are towns in India that have stagnated water bodies contaminated with human waste.
          Prior to coming on this study away trip, I had a tentative interest in pursuing hydrology in graduate school. After witnessing the horrid conditions of water in India, this feeling of interest has been confirmed and intensified. I feel an urgent need to help improve water quality. Going to school in Greenville, South Carolina, where high quality water is readily available from the tap, I have taken clean, drinkable water for granted. Witnessing the water conditions in India has made me more appreciative of water in the United States and has motivated me to develop ways in which water quality can be improved in countries like India.
          However, hydrologists can only do so much in improving the quality of water. There must be stricter Governmental regulations on public defecation and greater enforcement against littering. It will be interesting to see what policies the Indian government implements to improve sanitation throughout the nation.      
                  
          

10.19-22 - "Looming" large in the land of silk

I wasn't sure how to attack...

          Things were pretty laid back at MCC this past Wednesday and Thursday. I kept up my post-lecture routine of going for a run around campus. I'm just now starting to get used to the thick humidity. I have a feeling the air in South Carolina is going to feel thin and crisp when I return stateside in December. While on my run, I saw a mongoose dart into the woods, which brought back childhood memories of watching the cartoon adaptation of Rudyard Kipling's Rikki-Tikki-Tavi. We also ventured over to the athletic fields to play ultimate frisbee. Multiple MCC students stopped to watch us play as they were walking by. A large group of Americans running around and tossing a disk must have been an exotic sight. We'll have to teach the students how to play eventually.

          Teatime is one of the best parts of the day. Every afternoon around 5 PM, our cooks put out a thermos of hot, subtly sweet tea. The tea is accompanied by an assortment of Indian cookies including "Good Day" and "Nice Time." Oreos are also served occasionally. Instead of "milk's favorite cookie," Oreos in India are marketed as "the world's most popular biscuit."

          This past Friday was one of the best days of the trip so far. We finally got a taste of Indian village life got the chance to interact with the locals. We left MCC early in the morning and traveled to the famous silk selling town of Kancheepuram. The girls spent the morning shopping for their Diwali sarees. After the final selections were made, we stopped at a local vegetarian restaurant for lunch. Suresh recommended that I order the dosa and I was shocked when the massive, crepe-like creation was placed in front of me. After several awkward attempts at mastication and deglutition, I resorted to the break-and-dip method. 

          Lunch was followed by a stop at the small village of Cheyyar, where we got to go on a tour of the place where the silk becomes sarees. It was amazing to see the expert weaver skilfully operate the loom with machine-like precision. The saree that the weaver was working on when we arrived was being made of bright pink silk and gold thread. Apparently, sarees of this quality can take up to 50 hours to complete and sell for around 2,500 rupees ($500).

          The next stop in the village was a pottery/brick making area. After the potter gave a demonstration of his craft, he let Tori and Alexa try their hands at the wheel. I could tell that the locals who had gathered around to watch were thoroughly enjoying the spectacle based on their toothy smiles and hearty laughs. It was  nice to hang out with local Indians who were genuinely interested in interacting, not pandering for handouts like the people in the city.

          We drove from the village to Suresh's in-laws house for a quick snack and then went to watch a live dance drama performance arranged by Suresh's father-in-law. The rooftop performance was colorful, lively, engaging, and enjoyable. 

          Throughout the day, we saw hoards of men dressed in white standing in the streets, waiting to hear the results of the municipal elections. I was impressed by the intense commitment to political activism. Even when we were driving back to MCC at midnight, hundreds of men lined the streets of every town we passed through. 

         Saturday was a dramatic change of pace from the relaxing village vibe - we traveled into the bustling heart of downtown Chennai. I was expecting the city to be brimming with trash and refuse, but the wide city streets were surprisingly devoid of trash. Immense construction projects were underway including a gigantic cricket stadium and impressive music auditorium. I was Sony, Adidas, and Nike stores as well as BMW, Mercedes, and Audi dealerships. We eventually rolled up to the largest mall in Chennai. With Diwali next week, we were essentially shopping at a mall in New York the week before Christmas - lots of people! It was impressive to see an urbanized center and I was finally able to see why India has one of the fastest growing economies in the world.